My diy spot welder!


I build this thing just from scrap I happened to see around the house

22 Responses to “My diy spot welder!”

  • xrayrep:

    Nice job! It would work better if you turned the power on/off with a foot switch because then you could turn off the heat while still holding pressure on the spot welded joint. You never should pull the electrodes apart while the spot weld is melted. Wait a half second or so after voltage is turned off, THEN release the pressure. I own a professional spot welder, and that’s how the manufacturer explains to do it. Still, you did a ncie job on the construction! :)

  • plazzax:

    nice rig

  • MrJslade:

    I made one and its seems to work pretty good but only for small things. Its works great for wire under 1/8 inch but when it comes to sheet its got to be under .4 mm. Stainless works alot better I think because of its higher resistance. What it really needs is a driver curciut on the primary side.

  • gizmoguyar:

    Hey, I made a welder like this a few months ago, but I can’t get it to weld anything. I’m measuring about 400 amps, and it will heat 1/8 of an inch of steel white hot, but no matter what I try it won’t weld. Do you have any advice/info? what type of metal were you welding in this video?

  • 2LateIWon:

    @XGsboty

    Sweet looks like fun to play with then

  • XGsboty:

    No because there is no magnetron :D – or even high voltage secondary! Or capacitor or diode! Absolutely no chances.

  • 2LateIWon:

    don’t you have to worry about microwave radiation?

    becarful

  • defendant420:

    @XGsboty well I think its a great machine , like a spotweld press would be perfect if you manufactured items and had to do like 100 a day, or a mexican worker or whatever

  • XGsboty:

    Nope, just regular galvanized steel(?). I know, it’s a big flaw but this wasn’t ever used in anything real :)

  • defendant420:

    were those bolt conductor things made of copper?

  • XGsboty:

    Yes it’s directly powered directly from line, 230V to be exact as I live in Finland. I personally see very little advantage of any drive circuit. Of course a little higher frequency would be great, but if not easily availuable, it’s not worth the effort.

  • JeromeDemers:

    I just got my MOT and will build one real soon. Do you have a drive circuit or the MOT is directly powered from the 120v? Thanks!

  • XGsboty:

    Mot is probably best thing you can find. (Cheapest and easily available) Basicly any E-core transformer would do, you just need to replace the secondary with loop or two of thick wire. If you need to use it for longer periods, you need cooling. Bigger the core -> it’ll run cooler and you get more power.

  • LittlePyroManiacDude:

    im not too smart with this kinda stuff but i wanna build one, so like do you have to use a mot?

  • twenglish1:

    nice spot welder!!! 5 stars!!! now let me ask: what size wire is that, it is huge!

  • acerods:

    Cool!
    Thanks
    Al

  • dundermiflinpaper:

    dude, great job! if you put copper electrodes on there, that would be pro!

  • XGsboty:

    Yes you’re absolutely right – not copper. I’m not sure exactly but it’s either A2 or A4 stainless steel. Yes, bad conductor, great losses. But yet it kind-of worked :P

  • lordhenry1970:

    Nice stuff. What are your electrodes made of exactly? They don’t seem to be copper at all. Perhaps I’m wrong.

  • XGsboty:

    I just sawed secondary windings off (easier said than done, nearly impossible :O) and wound two (one and half) loops of thickest cable I could found around the house.

  • finster101:

    Nice job and good video. How did you modify the transformer?

  • hannina:

    Thank you for the demonstration.
    Well done.

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